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Concho Tool Former
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A How to make it description
All credit for the design and application of this tool to make domed flat edge conchos goes to Bit and Spur maker Diane Scalese, who was generous enough to tell me how to make it-Thanks Diane, you're the greatest!

* Click below images for a larger view in a new window *

This page will show a step by step how to description of how to make and use a forming tool to make domed conchos with a flat perimeter edge. It's real easy to make and quick too, so let's get started.
First I start out with two pieces of metal cut as squares, in this case 4". The thickness I used is the same as for my rowels-about 1/8"-but essentially thick enough not to bend easily and not too thick to make drilling with a hole saw a real chore. Lines were drawn to mark the center and the four outside holes for the wing nuts fasteners and then hole punched to guide the drill properly. I used vice grips to keep them together and aligned properly.
   
The plates have then been drilled for the four corner holes, which I place wing nuts to tighten and keep things aligned perfectly-here''s what it looks like. The tool on the right is called a hole saw ( a new invention to me and wonderful for many applications). It will drill in my case a 1-13/8" hole into the center of the screwed together plates-on my drill press clamped down to secure it firmly while drilling. Remember to center punch where the center hole will go.
Here the two plates screwed together are clamped in place on my drill press ready to be drilled with the 1-3/8" hole saw. Be sure to take your time drilling and use LOTS of penetrating or tool oil often to keep the hole saw from getting dull. They cost about $10.00 so you'll want to extend their life. Drilling took about 5 minutes to go through both sheets and I oiled about every 10-15 seconds or so.
This is what the plates look like after they have been drilled, they're still screwed together and I file with my round file the inside edges to keep them smooth,
I make file marks as a registration mark on the front and back so when it's apart I can easily align it back again-it saves a bit of time. Make them go down the outside edges a little so you know that is the leading edge so to speak.
Here everything is disassembled ready to form the actual concho. The carriage bolt bought cheaply at the hardware store is what us used to pound down into the hole with the concho metal in place, and form the shallow depression part of the concho. To the right is the metal I used for the concho. I'm making spur strap conshos 2" outside diameter so cut a square piece 2-1/4" to allow for a little wiggle room. It's thin enough metal (I'll check the thickness and gauge and update soon) so as to be sturdy, but I cold form them with no heat and it works like a charm! I dew an X from corner to corner to have a visual reference to where the middle will be when it's clamped in place between the two sheets.
Here the 2-1/4" square of concho metal is placed between the two steel plates and aligned to have the X in the center, then screwed in place. You'll note three screws and one vice grip. I snapped one bolt off while tightening it too much so vice grips to the rescue :-)
The two plates with the concho metal securely tightened down and well centered is about to be formed by using the carriage bolt of an appropriate size. I place the plate over my dapping block and hammer away but you could also put it over your vice-anything where you have room underneath and it's supported firmly overall essentially. I form these cold in steel, if you're using silver or another metal for the base concho-perhaps place a washer of sorts of cardboard, felt, or paper to keep your precious metal from getting scratched like crazy. For the steel it doesn't get scratched at all I find, but then again I buffed the interior of the plates well too.
*** I hammer down on the carriage bolt in the center at first, you'll find the appropriate pressure by trial and error and examining your progress. The outermost edges are more tricky to form well rounded but there's a trick I learned. Place the outside edge of the carriage bolt at a slight angle headed inwards to the center of the concho , but it is at the outside edge of the circle at this point and hammer it. This will push the metal down from the outermost edges better and you will get a crisper edge. I repeat this by going around like a clock, as if you were tightening a tire after fixing a flat-12:OO, 6:00, 3:00, 9:00 and in-between those as well. You'll chart your progress and make the appropriate strikes and it's easy basically-just check for even curves, I end with a few center punches.
Here is the end result of the forming as seen from a birds eye view.
Here is what it looks like from the front, is that wicked cool or what? It's important to review here well, as once you unscrew the whole assembly it will be difficult and messy to try and realign it-I tried that first time and had to made another one ,since I had overlapping lines where it didn't realign as well as it looked like it did. Check for the symmetry of the curve and it's overall appearance. If you're happy with it awesome, if it needs some tweaking have at it again. Now comes the fun part!
Here the two plates have been unbolted and the piece removed, the result is amazing and it couldn't be easier to make-I thought these had to be purchased, when I saw this the first time I was amazed! You'll note that the outer edges are nice and flat yet they need to be trimmed now.
Bearing in mind I wanted a two inch diameter concho (whose inside we just formed at 1-3/8") I place the formed concho underneath a see-through hole template chart, at the two inch hole size. Then simply ( easier said than done-pardon me) align it by eye as well as you can and trace along the sides with a permanent maker, This will be the two inch outside edge you will need to trim.
 
Here it is after I marked it and removed it from underneath the hole chart. I bought mine at "Staples" for cheap and they're extremely useful.
And here is the finished domed flat edge concho. On my band saw I carefully removed as much material as I could around the edges, and then on the sanding belt removed the rest to attain it's final look. I rough polished it but would do a much better job before I mount it. Remember, this one is steel, if you're using silver copper or brass you're pretty much done except for the fun engraving part. Loop backs or Chicago screws I use and hard solder onto the back, as appropriate for the type of fastening fixture it needs depending on its application. In my case of a spur strap concho, it will get four small Chicago screws placed uniformly around the flat edge, where it will be fastened onto the spur strap. I haven't done that before so wish me luck :-)
The finished concho can also have a decorative edge like the scarf slide I have posted at the top of this page. That I marked out and trimmed away on the sanding belt. Experiment with different borders cut from the metal, or engrave border styles into the metal. A twisted rope border firmly soldered in palce is nice too-it's all up to your imagination.
 
I hope this presentation is useful to all who want to know how to make these. Thanks to my instructor Diane Scalese who taught me this procedure I am able to share this information with you and gladly pass along that which has been so freely give to me by others, whether it be from the GRS Glendo training seminars, Igraver.com, or other spur makers and metalsmiths. A big thanks to Sam Alfano too, whose web site just listed provides a wonderful wealth of information and community support-I'm a better engraver for having come across it-Thanks a million Sam!
Best Regards and happy concho making-Paul Kelleher from New Hampshire-go figure!